Archive for May, 2010

The Everyday Surfer’s Dream Archetype

Monday, May 24th, 2010

Let’s analyze this video:

Lone man sits on his board a few yards out from the beach, staring toward the sea in a catatonic pose as if looking past the horizon. Notice that his posture is immutable and transcendent of time and space, the way his arms are rigidly held at his side, the way he continuously looks ahead.

Who knows how long he has sat here this way. A thousand years?

A perfect A-frame set begins to build directly in front of him. The wave grows, but surfer remains in rigid posture. He finds it unnecessary to move. As wave reaches its breaking point, surfer lays down on board, aims toward shore, takes four complete strokes, drops in.

This absurdity is the Everyday Surfer’s Dream. The surfer only had to make the most fundamentally necessary movements to catch this wave, the ocean did the rest. Perfect wave, perfect position, perfect paddle speed, in-sync and in rhythm. It is so simple it actually appears to be mundane and arbitrary. Most striking, however, is the existential loneliness of it all. To watch this scenario unwind over and over again gives a strange sense of cosmic determinism in the vein of Groundhog Day, where every day repeats itself like the last.

Isn’t this the ultimate goal in surfing, to find a completely isolated A-frame peak that breaks the exact same way all day long?

3rd Most Desirable Cold Wave

Saturday, May 22nd, 2010

Continuing with our definitive evaluation of the most desirable arctic surf spots we arrive at location number three. As we get closer to announcing the absolutely best arctic surf, the selection process gets continually more difficult for us. As you read this we are sifting through an overwhelming quantity of information, statistics, charts, graphs, maps, pictograms, and reader feedback surrounding this increasingly popular surf niche. Enough prefacing, let’s go.

The World’s Third Most Desirable Arctic Surf Spot: Arctic Norway. This environmentally pristine and secluded surf sanctuary is a friendly finger in the scandinavian neighborhood, next door to the Nobel Prize awarding Sweden. Closely rivaling wave-rich Chile in geographical skinniness, Norway gets a gold star for cold wave quality. Why the most desirable? Colorful beach cottages and fishing villages, dramatic mountainous scenery, and a unique species of arctic ocean shark make Norway a prime choice to surf in the arctic.

Photo Credit

Window On The North: Cloudy & Calm

Friday, May 7th, 2010

Today is a bit overcast and cloudy, with snow on the ground from Wednesday. However, wind is non-existent, with a nice swell wrapping all the way around the point. To get a feel for the wave size, check out the buildings on the point, they are a bit hard to see with all the snow. Should be some head-high sets +, with inc. tide and adm.  for the most part.