Mysteries In The Furious Fifties
Friday, June 25th, 2010
According to the rare-earth hypothesis, there is a strict set of conditions that allows life on earth to succeed. Imagine our planet was moved a few inches from its current path: the factors that keep us alive would be changed enough to drastically alter the earth into a dusty orbiting rock. Even within the comforts of our atmosphere life is sensitive and vulnerable. This is the case in the severe climates of the poles, and it’s why there are not a lot of people living on the islands off the coast of Antarctica.
On one such island it’s not only cold, but it’s illegal to make a landing without papers, so there truly is no one there. But say you are interested in going there, and all the correct forms are filed, and you’re approved, and you’ve registered with the captain of the ice-busting “Polar Bird” and paid your way, even then you would only be granted a few days’ access.

You’ll need to spend each night on the boat because there are no man-made anythings on the island. And everything you bring to land must be collected and brought back off the island. These are some of the reasons why no one has ever come to surf here and why it could be a long time until anyone does. But beyond these difficulties lies an island so mysterious and so furious that it would gray even the most colorful arctic surf fantasies.

The island, which is about the size of Martha’s Vineyard combined with Nantucket Island, has 17 known sandy and reefy point breaks. The proposed names for these breaks, starting from the northern tip of the island and going clockwise, are: Cosmic Lefts, The Cove, The Station, The Sledge, Prometheus, Quasar Reef, Numbs, Ninnies, Noobs, The Spit, He-Man, Doom Reef, Leviathan Left, The Terminal, Frosties, Pod, and Gandalf.

While I’m not sure if armchair naming of breaks is allowed — someone told me that I have to be the first to surf it to name it — I feel like having these names establishes the breaks in our minds and on the map and brings them out of the abstract, all of which they rightly deserve. There are a few waves that look to be some of the biggest waves on the planet, and one or two lefts that are longer than G-land.

There may be a profundity of waves in a small area, but it doesn’t change the reality of how unfriendly this place is. It is rare to see anyone here. Mankind on this cold and hostile rock is like volcanic lava flows mingling with glacial terminals. What I mean is the two are very different things, and when they come into contact with each other the stronger always wins. So if mankind naturally gravitates toward a strict set of conditions in which life is comfortably preserved (which he does), then why the fascination with such severe and deadly beauty?





