Volcano Island Sandbar

May 18th, 2011

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Surtsey, a volcanic island approximately 32 km from the south coast of Iceland, is a new island formed by volcanic eruptions that took place from 1963 to 1967. It is all the more outstanding for having been protected since its birth, providing the world with a pristine natural laboratory.

UNESCO World Heritage

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Also fascinating about this island are the perfect sandbars formed along the North Spit. The young volcano spews granular particles into the sea. Boulders and sand collect along the rocky ridge of the underwater mountain and settle into banks. Generally, surf breaks on the south side and deposits material on the northern lee side of Surtsey. However, depending on the swell direction, waves can also break as a point break. Each eruption drastically changes the shape of the island and the surrounding sand. Scientists cannot predict what kind of beach break, point break, or reef break might appear next.

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Small volcanic islands with recent eruptions create the perfect laboratory to observe the formation of new waves. This is because new sand flows directly into the sea and is quickly shaped. Sand and small rocks create smooth ocean floor bathymetry, well-suited for point break formation. Consistent and even transitions from deep water to shallow water along a spit of sand allow waves to break in mechanical fashion at a variety of swell angles and sizes. There are a small number of islands around the world that currently exhibit these characteristics.

Arctic Explorer

May 7th, 2011

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Window On The North: Happy Easter

April 26th, 2011

Top-notch waves have been on hand over Easter weekend at this remote arctic pointbreak.

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Coldwater Hotspots

April 23rd, 2011

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Let’s take a look at a few coldwater hotspots, regions widely known for their high excellence in wave quality and incredibly cold water temperature. With well-known surf competitions such as the O’Neill Coldwater Classic and increasing coverage in print and online surf publications, surfing in these locations is now becoming a subject of everyone’s daily conversation and thought.

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Thurso East is an excellent right-breaking reef located on the northern coast of Scotland. Scotland’s coastline is littered with slabby slabs and abrupt ledges created by stratified rock consisting of laminated sandstone. Whether rain, storm, or sun, these North Atlantic reefs consistently create mechanical waves.

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Eastern Canada is located along one of the coldest seas on the planet. The region’s surf spots have been featured in contests such as the Red Bull Ice Break in Nova Scotia. Surfers wear boots, gloves, hood, and reportedly coat their faces in Vaseline to protect from frost burn. Swell tends to be fickle, but when it’s coming in, it will probably be worth considering the possibility of paddling out.

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Norway’s Lofoten islands are located within the Arctic Circle. But temperatures are not as cold as you might expect. The region is home to a positive temperature anomaly created by the North Atlantic Current. In a few areas of the archipelago, temperatures remain above freezing year round. Norway has been experiencing publicity in surf films such as ‘Arctic Surf’. Further coastlines have been explored along the Berents Sea and the border of Russia.

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Like eastern Canada, New England is very very cold. It’s here that coastal geology transitions from wide sandy beaches and dunes to rocky formations and cobblestone reefs. Coastal access is difficult, however. It’s one of the coldest place to surf in the United States.

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Iceland is exciting territory for coldwater breaks. Well-kept roads make coastal access manageable during the warmer seasons. Its active volcano landscape creates countless geological formations perfect for the formation of excellent waves. Recently a coldwater surf camp opened for surf travelers keen to venture into new territory, and the region was features in Taylor Steele’s Castles In The Sky film.

The Hidden Face Of God

April 12th, 2011

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The following images belong to a catalogue of drawings from the Scott Polar Research Institute, founded in Cambridge, England in 1920. Along with numerous other institutes, it investigates scientific data concerning the polar regions and holds a collection of items and materials of polar interest for future research. The inscription on the front of the original research institute building reads:

“He sought the secret of the pole but found the hidden face of God”

Sir Herbert A.L. Fisher

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Window On The North

March 31st, 2011

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Small, fun, peaky, punchy, glassy, sunny.

Unfound Land, Part II

March 23rd, 2011
The Arctic deserts of Russia are infused with gold and platinum, but their remote location makes access difficult. During the Soviet era, political prisoners and criminals mined these rich resources. To be sent to the most distant regions of the country was a death sentence.
Léon Theremin was a brilliant and successful Russian scientist. In the 1930’s he worked in the United States under the mentorship of Joseph Schillinger and Albert Einstein. As the threat of another world war approached, he returned to the Soviet Union. Upon arrival in his home country, Theremin was imprisoned and sent to work in an Arctic death camp.
Rumors of his death spread across the country. But in truth, government officials moved him to a secret research laboratory. There, Theremin invented laser devises and espionage technology. He was released in 1956 and rehabilitated. Today, this extremely remote area remains unpopulated. A few Arctic lakes and mountain rages remained unfound until 1926. These photographs reveal that the gems of Siberia are not only beneath the earth, but also along the coastline.

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The Arctic deserts of Russia are infused with gold and platinum, but their remote location keeps them conceiled. During the Soviet era, political prisoners and criminals mined these rich resources. Being sent there was a death sentence.

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Léon Theremin was a brilliant and successful Russian scientist. In the 1930’s he worked in the United States under the mentorship of Joseph Schillinger and Albert Einstein. As the threat of another world war approached, he returned to the USSR. Upon arrival in his home country, Theremin was imprisoned and sent to work in an Arctic death camp.

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Rumors of his death spread across the country. But in truth, government officials moved him to a secret research laboratory. There, Theremin invented laser devises and espionage technology. He was released in 1956 and rehabilitated. Today, this extremely remote area remains unpopulated. As an example, a few of the region’s lakes and mountain ranges remained unfound up until 1926. The photographs in this article reveal that the gems of Siberia are not only beneath the earth, but also along the coastline.

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Ice Tubes, Volcano Islands, Arctic Explorers

March 16th, 2011

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Unfound Land, Part I

March 1st, 2011

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Beyond the evergreen forests of Siberia lies a land bound by sea and ice. It’s granulated coast is home to violent, dangerous predators and beleaguered by inclement weather. The region’s only settlement is unreachable by road and surrounded by large volcanoes. It is the most volcanic terrain on earth. Swells funnel into narrow bays and peak on silty sandbars.

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Superbly shaped waves result when reefs focus the swell energy along the shallow contours of the sea floor (above). Many of the waves are rivermouth waves, the result of rivers spewing sediment into the sea. Rain cascades down the face of the mountains, dragging with it stony debris. As the rain coalesces into a stream, water and gravity pull larger rocks down toward the ocean.

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Through continual friction, the stone is ground into a fine sediment. The velocity of the stream slows as it reaches horizontal terrain, looping and bending toward the sea. Sediment and sand is deposited along the way (above). This raw coastline is a beautiful example of the natural dynamics found in geology and oceanography. In part II of “Unfound Land” we will uncover some of the incredible waves breaking along the hidden landmass beyond Siberia.

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Mystery Eurasia

February 22nd, 2011

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In an obscure land, a rare swell tracks across the ocean and lights up  dormant point breaks with flawless surf. It’s an uncommon sight. The swell window is incredibly narrow, and the body of water is small. But when the right conditions coincide, it’s nothing short of “all time”. The harbor along this stretch of coast is seldom heard of, connecting a city rarely seen by Western eyes with the rest of the world. Cold winters lock the boats in ice.

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Many facts about the surf are unclear. But we can see that the potential is great, although the consistency is uncertain. Notice the photograph above. With infrequent swells, chances are that most good waves go unridden.

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A point break spot check in the fall season. Waves arrive from unusual storm trains in the south.